Australian Brown Onion - 0.5 gram

The Australian Brown Onion is a classic long-day variety known for its bronze-brown papery skin, firm white flesh, and excellent storage quality. It’s a strong, traditional variety that thrives in warm, dry climates and produces medium to large globe-shaped bulbs.

Bulb shape: Round to slightly flattened globe

Skin: Golden to rich brown, dry and papery

Flesh: White, firm, crisp

Flavour: Strong, pungent, slightly spicy raw; mellow when cooked

Size: Typically 7–10 cm in diameter

Storage: Excellent—stores 4–6 months in proper conditions

Maturity: 120–180 days (from seed)

Growing Conditions

Sunlight: Full sun (at least 6–8 hours/day)

Soil: Loose, well-drained sandy loam enriched with compost

pH: 6.0–7.0 (neutral is ideal)

Watering: Regular, even watering—shallow roots need consistent moisture, especially in dry periods

Feeding: Requires fertile soil; apply balanced fertilizer at sowing, and side-dress with high potassium as bulbs begin to swell

Growing Season

This is a long-day onion variety, meaning it requires 14+ hours of daylight to form bulbs. Best suited to regions with long summer days.

Sow in late autumn to early winter in mild climates (for spring/summer harvest)

In cooler regions, start indoors in late winter, then transplant

Harvested in mid-to-late summer, depending on sowing time

Sowing Instructions

From Seed (preferred for best storage onions)

When to sow:

Temperate regions: Sow late autumn to early winter

Cooler climates: Sow late winter indoors, transplant in early spring

Seed depth: 0.5–1 cm

Spacing:

Thin or transplant to 10–15 cm between plants

Rows 25–30 cm apart

Germination temp: 10–25°C

Germination time: 7–14 days

From Seedlings or Sets (faster, but reduced storage life)

Plant 10–15 cm apart

Less likely to bolt than seed-started onions

Harvested slightly earlier, but may not store as long

Common Pests & Diseases

Pests:

Onion Thrips: Cause silvery patches and twisted leaves – control with insecticidal soap or neem oil

Onion Maggots: Larvae burrow into bulbs – rotate crops, use row covers

Cutworms: Chew through stems – use collars or encourage predatory insects

Aphids: Can distort young shoots – hose off or use neem oil

Slugs/Snails: Feed on young shoots – use barriers or traps

Diseases:

Downy Mildew: Yellowing and fuzzy growth – avoid wetting leaves and ensure good spacing

White Rot: Soil-borne; yellowing, stunted growth – avoid planting alliums in same area for several years

Neck Rot: Occurs post-harvest; caused by harvesting too wet or damaged – harvest only when dry, cure bulbs well

Botrytis Leaf Blight: Grey mold – rotate crops and avoid overhead watering

Harvesting & Storage Tips

Harvest when: Tops fall over and begin to yellow naturally

Cure: Lay bulbs out in a dry, shaded, well-ventilated spot for 2–3 weeks

Trim: Cut tops to 2–3 cm and roots once cured

Store: In cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation—mesh bags or baskets are ideal